After a couple years of dealing with half of a factory sound system in my 2001 A4 Avant QTM, I'm finally making some changes. The trunk-mounted subwoofer/amplifier blew not long after I bought the car, so I've had only the front door-mounted speakers and tweeters functioning these last 2 years. Bleh, it sounds like crap.
So here is my sound system build thread. I've spent a lot of time considering my options these last couple years, and it's all finally culminating in this "grand plan". The components I'll be using:
- Nexus 7 2013 tablet for a head unit
- USB DAC for audio output
- AudioControl Epicenter Bass Processor
- AudioControl Three.2 in-dash EQ
- AudioControl EQS trunk-mounted equalizer
- AudioControl 6XS trunk-mounted electronic crossover
- Cadence Sound "Chicago" amplifier for front speakers and tweeters
- Cadence Sound "Vegas" amplifier for rear speakers and subwoofer
- CDT ES-04 4" mid woofers for the front doors
- CDT HD-1 1" tweeters for the front doors
- CDT WS-100i 1" imaging tweeters for the windshield
- CDT ES-6im 6.5" woofers for the rear doors
- CDT HD-1000 10" subwoofer for the trunk
Questions you're probably asking:
Don't you realize there are more modern audio processing components than that outdated AudioControl stuff? How about a JL Audio MS-8 or an Arc PS-8 or a Rockford Fosgate 3sixty.3?
- I want to maintain an all-analog signal path from the DAC onwards. The DAC I'm using outputs a 24bit/96khz resolution signal, so I'd like to keep it that way all the way to the speakers. I have a large collection of FLAC music files that were mastered in 96khz. ALL current digital processors downsample that to 48khz. Also, most digital processors have an annoying limit on input signal voltage, which I find restrictive. As a bonus, I already had some of this stuff laying around from a setup in a previous vehicle, so that saves me money.
But Frank! Why only use 4" drivers in the front doors when most people stuff 5.25" drivers?
- because I love the sound of the CDT ES-04 speakers, and the rear door speakers (with 6.5" drivers) are immediately behind me anyways. Also, 4" drivers fit better in the doors with minimal modifications. These speakers can go all the way down to 100hz without breaking a sweat, although I only plan to run them down to 250hz.
Wow, that system should look killer!
- I hope not... I'm planning to hide everything so it appears bone stock to anyone who looks in through the window, with the exception of the touch screen where the head unit should be. I also want to make it as reversible as possible, so I can take the stuff out and keep it if I decide to sell this car.
And so begins the build thread! My first order of business will be to run the power cable from the battery to the trunk. Stay tuned!
So here is my sound system build thread. I've spent a lot of time considering my options these last couple years, and it's all finally culminating in this "grand plan". The components I'll be using:
- Nexus 7 2013 tablet for a head unit
- USB DAC for audio output
- AudioControl Epicenter Bass Processor
- AudioControl Three.2 in-dash EQ
- AudioControl EQS trunk-mounted equalizer
- AudioControl 6XS trunk-mounted electronic crossover
- Cadence Sound "Chicago" amplifier for front speakers and tweeters
- Cadence Sound "Vegas" amplifier for rear speakers and subwoofer
- CDT ES-04 4" mid woofers for the front doors
- CDT HD-1 1" tweeters for the front doors
- CDT WS-100i 1" imaging tweeters for the windshield
- CDT ES-6im 6.5" woofers for the rear doors
- CDT HD-1000 10" subwoofer for the trunk
Questions you're probably asking:
Don't you realize there are more modern audio processing components than that outdated AudioControl stuff? How about a JL Audio MS-8 or an Arc PS-8 or a Rockford Fosgate 3sixty.3?
- I want to maintain an all-analog signal path from the DAC onwards. The DAC I'm using outputs a 24bit/96khz resolution signal, so I'd like to keep it that way all the way to the speakers. I have a large collection of FLAC music files that were mastered in 96khz. ALL current digital processors downsample that to 48khz. Also, most digital processors have an annoying limit on input signal voltage, which I find restrictive. As a bonus, I already had some of this stuff laying around from a setup in a previous vehicle, so that saves me money.
But Frank! Why only use 4" drivers in the front doors when most people stuff 5.25" drivers?
- because I love the sound of the CDT ES-04 speakers, and the rear door speakers (with 6.5" drivers) are immediately behind me anyways. Also, 4" drivers fit better in the doors with minimal modifications. These speakers can go all the way down to 100hz without breaking a sweat, although I only plan to run them down to 250hz.
Wow, that system should look killer!
- I hope not... I'm planning to hide everything so it appears bone stock to anyone who looks in through the window, with the exception of the touch screen where the head unit should be. I also want to make it as reversible as possible, so I can take the stuff out and keep it if I decide to sell this car.
And so begins the build thread! My first order of business will be to run the power cable from the battery to the trunk. Stay tuned!
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